The
first day we were in Serbia, our morning excursion took us to Belgrade. We
started with a walking tour through Belgrade Fortress. The ruins have been
turned into a park and aren’t that impressive, but the location was important
in former times because it is at the confluence between the Sava and Danube Rivers.
These photos show part of the old wall, the place where the rivers come
together, a plaza with a monument of “Victor” (a naked man seen from the rear
in this photo), and a bird strutting down below the walls.
From
there, we took a short bus ride to the Church of St. Sava, which is Serbian
Orthodox. Although it was planned out between the two world wars and the first
stone laid in 1935, construction was stopped until 1984, when they finally got
government permission to complete it. It is a gorgeous church, as you can see
from the photo at the top of this post. It is also stunning inside, as the next
picture shows. There are no seats inside, though. During the 2-3 hour services
they bring in chairs for the elderly and infirm, but most people are expected
to stand.
That
afternoon we took a bus excursion to Kovečica, which is a Slavic artists’
colony. We saw a number of cool paintings, but I didn’t take any photos because
I didn’t want to infringe on anyone’s intellectual property rights.
While
there, we also visited the workshop where Jan Memčik makes and restores
violins. He explained the process to us and showed us examples of the wood he
uses—Bosnian maple for the bottom and sides and resonant spruce for the top.
The next two photos show Mr. Memčik at his work desk and an example of the
Bosnian maple he uses.
Our
second day in Serbia started with a stop at Golubac Fortress right on the Danube.
It never saw much action as a fort because the owners kept giving it away
peacefully, but it must have given pause to would-be conquerors. Because the area
next to the river is narrow with mountains rising above it, for about a century
(until fairly recently), the road ran right through it until fairly recently,
when tunnels were built to route the road around it. Before then, trucks and
buses scraped the tops of the arches and often got stuck in them. The problem
was usually solved by letting some air out of the tires, but
still . . .
The
following pictures show Golubac Fortress and a catapult that is a replica of
ones used there.
The
rest of the day was spent sailing along a scenic portion of the Danube called
the Iron Gate, with Serbia on one side of the river and Romania on the other. We
heard a couple of different reasons for the name. One is because the rocks
along the cliff have iron ore in them. But the river here was tamed with a set
of locks, which could also be considered an iron gate.
As
I said, it was very scenic sailing, but I’ll just give you two highlights. The
first photo shows the entrance to that stretch of the Danube, and the second is
Decebalas Rex on the Romanian side of the river. He was a king who fought
against the Roman Empire, and the carving is apparently their version of Mount
Rushmore.
From
Serbia, it was on to Bulgaria. I’ll blog about that next week.
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